Hanoi has to be one of the saddest places we have ever visited; sad and drab. The contrast between Hanoi, which won the war, and Saigon, which lost, couldn’t be more clear. Ho Chi Minh City, which even the residents continue to call Saigon, is bright, lively and fun; bustling with life and booming with development. You would never know that it was a conquered town, for it has shaken off that defeat and is looking ahead to a bright future as investment dollars pour into this lovely, scenic city. Hanoi may have won the war, but you would never know it from the attitude of its people, who seem sunk in spiritual despair; faces lined with a hard life of toil and sacrifice that seems to have produce very few tangible results from three generations of war.
Perhaps that is the fuel behind the cultic devotion to the memory of Ho Chi Minh, the man that led North Vietnam to victory over the Americans in a war that both marked and scarred my generation. We went to see the tomb of old Uncle Ho yesterday and it was one of the weirdest experiences of my life. We were hustled and herded like so many cattle in robotic rows up to this enormous monolithic mausoleum that would have done the ancient pharaohs proud. We had to surrender our cameras and silence our phones and then there we were filing past the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh lit up with a ghostly light like some Halloween ghoul inside his glass coffin. The slightest deviation from the robotic shuffle – hands in pockets, hands behind the back, hats on – was met with physical correction from the two dozen uniformed and armed guards. Pam’s phone, which she had forgotten to put on silent mode, rang shrilly just as we exited and I confess that we both burst into hysterical and nervous laughter. What if that had gone off in the tomb?
Ironically, just half a kilometer away was the little wooden two room house on stilts where Ho studied, met with advisers, and fed his carp. Following the defeat of the French, Ho refused to live in the French-built presidential palace, and left explicit instructions that after his death his body be cremated and the ashes be buried in hills in the north, south and middle of the country. Those who came after Ho clearly had other ideas for his legacy, and without any other religion, since all were banned under Communism, it is not surprising that the legacy of Ho be remembered with godlike reverence.
But it is not just the shadow of their dead god that hovers over this city. It seems to be haunted with other dead ghosts as well: the dreams of a glorious communist future lie in ruins everywhere. The city is choking with its own chemical smog; millions of motorbikes cram narrow streets filled with evidence of a crumbling infrastructure: broken sidewalks, crumbling buildings, electrical posts sagging under the weight of a rat’s nest of wires topped with loudspeakers blasting what we assume to be Communist propaganda. Men urinate openly against trees and walls, families struggle to eat on narrow and overcrowded sidewalks, and everywhere is the presence of uniformed and armed men; security personnel, police and predominately the green tunics of the sullen, unsmiling People’s Revolutionary Army. There is no victory and no dividend of peace in this grey, unhappy town.
December 30, 2011 at 10:20 am
I’ve been here for two years and have never seen the city in the way you describe it. How long were you here for? How many people did you sit down and talk to about their (un)happiness?
Men urinate openly in Saigon. And i’ve never seen Hanoian families “struggling to eat on narrow and overcrowded sidewalks” – they are just eating. Did you not see charm and history in the crumbling facades?
Like a good comments writer, you’ve taken an angle and stuck with it. So kudos. It just seems a touch unfair and inaccurate. Also, if you would have come to Hanoi first, your blog post may have been different. That always seems to be the case for visitors to Vietnam – whichever city is seen first becomes the favoured one.
Ok, so at this time of the year Hanoi is grey (if only you were here two weeks ago) but I don’t believe it’s as unhappy as you suggest.
December 30, 2011 at 12:53 pm
Ian, thank you for taking the trouble to respond and submit what is likely to be a far more fair and balanced opinion than my own. My wife and I have been in Asia for coming up to five years and have travelled to some pretty poor places in Laos, Cambodia and the Phillipines. Hanoi is not nearly as poor as those countries. But we see a hardness and an unhappiness, even aggression here that we have not seen before in Asia. Families eat in the parks and on the sidewalks in Phnom Penh as well, but there is a joy and even a celebration in those gatherings that we do not see on the gloomy, dark and cramped little sidewalk meals in Hanoi. I do not mean to offend, but just to share some thoughts as a Westerner in Asia on the cultural differences we see as we live and work in this part of the world.
December 30, 2011 at 6:11 pm
I agree with Ian, this is not how I see the city I now call home. I think what is annoying is that you have painted such a depressing picture as fact. There is a distinct lack of “we felt” or “it seems” or “in our opinion”.
You visited a tomb of a major historical and political figure and seemed to be upset that they didn’t allow cameras and phones. And yes, there are police/army with guns at such a point but again, what did you expect?
As for the greyness…it’s winter, the weather can be challenging but don’t blame a place for having a winter. You go to see a dead body and find it ghoulish. Why did you go?
I live and work here and quite honestly say I see more smiles, laughter and genuine contentment than I have in any other place I have ever been. I’m sorry that you didn’t like the place and, of course, you’re welcome to your opinion but it isn’t even presented as such. You make no concession to the fact that you spoke to no one and spent only a limited time here – drawing your own conclusions. That last line of yours is a killer – and yet there is no qualification of it being just how you see it.
Spend a couple of days in Hanoi in the dead of winter, choose to see the most guarded corner of the whole city and then write about how it’s grey and run by soldiers. Not exactly fair, no?
In your defence above, you can hardly back up your opinions by saying you’ve spent a lot of time in Asia. I know my home city in the UK well but it doesn’t mean my thoughts on the rest of Europe are valid.
December 30, 2011 at 8:30 pm
It’s perhaps revealing that you found it somewhat strange at having to act in an appropriately respectful manner in a mausoleum. To then “both burst into hysterical and nervous laughter” when the phone went off later smacks of nothing less than immaturity.
One cannot imagine going to The Response in Ottawa, or some other Canuck place of reverence (your church perhaps?), and acting in the same manner.
Hanoi, it’s people too, is a glorious place.The fact that you failed to see this perhaps says more about you than anything else.
Your tone and apparent colonial arrogance is distasteful.
December 31, 2011 at 2:36 am
Alan, I just had to approve your comments for the “immaturity” comment. At 62 it has beenn a long time since I was called immature, and I am sure my children and grandchildren will get a giggle out of it.
I have been to a number of monuments to the dead in my time, and I assure you that being as close to that eventuality as I am, I have the utmost respect for those who have lived a good life and left a legacy for mankind. But I did not see that at the ghoulish, embalmed remains of Ho Chi Minh. Why put his corpse on display? Why surround him with the pomp and reverence of a god? This was so clearly against everything the man stood for and even against his express wishes concerning his remains.
It is true that I silence my phone in church and that I show respect for the traditions and ceremonies of others. But in my culture I do not have to do it at the point of a gun. And if I err I am not physically constrained by armed guards to adopt a “reverential” posture.
The tragedy of North Vietnam is that it was indeeed promised a “glorious” future under Communism, but that future is crumbling under corruption, lack of civility, and most telling, a lack of hope for the future that once seemed so bright. Perhaps that is why the present leaders have chosen to glorify their past.
December 31, 2011 at 2:51 am
Steve, I am happy to hear that you find Hanoi not only livable, but enjoyable. That’s great. And like Ian you probably have a better feel for the city for having lived here for some time. I live in Malaysia; in Vietnam I am just a tourist. But I am a well-travelled tourist, and I have seen a lot of this part of the world. Having seen lots of Asian countries and lots of Asian cities I have to tell you that Hanoi is one of the saddest places that my wife and I have ever been.
As for this weblog being my opinion, well that does rather come with the territory, doesn’t it!
December 31, 2011 at 10:49 am
It’s a real pity you had such an experience, but your views certainly don’t chime with my experiences of having lived in the city for seven years.
Hanoi’s a love/hate place, you either take to it or don’t, but some of the comments I found ill-founded and badly informed. It felt like you had decided to create a narrative around your political views rather than give a true insight into one of the most picturesque cities that can be found in South East Asia. How you only took an image of self-projected Communist drabness from one of the most energetic, lively and anarchic places in region is a mystery to me.
As a long-term resident I’m fully aware of the frustrations that the city can create, but visiting it during the winter, with its dull drizzle and icy winds isn’t going to engender many positive feelings among tourists I guess.
I suggest you have a meander through Vietnamese history and look at the events that shaped Hanoi and it’s people. My view is that the Hanoians continuously get a bad rap for not being happy-go-lucky Saigonese with their insincere ‘have a nice day’ smiles. I’ve found people in the city are deeply sincere and warm and friendly, but it takes time to get to know them. But these characteristics in my opinion are historically based. northerners are more conservative in many regards, yet these social attitudes date back far beyond the French arrival, the Japanese occupation or the American presence let alone the partitioned period during 1954 and 1975. As do the social attitudes in HCMC, where the Vietnamese who moved south were always the most daring, outgoing and thrill-seeking (I’m talking about the 17th-19th century).
As for the loudspeakers, their content varies, yes events like national day and the capital’s liberation day are celebrated with music and some rather dull announcements on new legislation, but my local ward speaker had a mid-morning stream of ABBA and tango along with reminders to the local elderly to collect their pensions and keep the area tidy.
I suggest you visit Hanoi again sometime, but probably choose autumn where the city is at it’s best. I think you’d find you might change your mind. But if you really are dedicated to pursuing a politically slanted snap-shot lacking historical context and full of cliches about the ‘failures of communism’, perhaps you’d like to try somewhere several thousand miles to the east, I hear North Korea is lovely at this time of the year.
December 31, 2011 at 11:29 am
JC, thanks for the very insightful comments on Vietnamese cultural and historical development. I am no expert, but I do understand that both the French and later the Americans greatly underestimated these people. They fought for nearly a thousand years to rid themselves of their Chinese overlords, and acheived their independence around the time that William of Normandy was conquering Saxon England. The southern Cham extended their empire into Cambodia in the 14th and 15th centuries, defeating a Khymer Empire that at one time had extended all the way to the Straits of Malacca. These were not a people to be lightly subdued.
However, that kind of agression has its price, and it has resulted in a people that are far more aggressive than any I have met in South-East Asia. The Kymer of Cambodia have also held and lost empires, yet the people are as gentle and civil as any I have met. Walking through the streets of Phnom Pehn, Luong Prabong, Chiang Mai or Bagio City will bring you in contact with Asians who are friendly and gracious, verbose and kind. North Vietnam will get you sullen stares, rude gestures and aggressive responses both on the sidewalk and on the streets.
You have found it different, and I am glad for you. You have had the luxury of time to develop those contacts, and that is a great advantage. The great disadvantage is that by comparison with so many other places in Asia, North Vietnam is really not a very nice place to visit. The scenery is stunning. But until these people overcome their distaste for the West, and their obvious resentment – conveyed in all the ways we see and feel – of how much they have suffered from us “colonial imperialists,” North Vietnam is going to remain associated with the outlook typified by North Korea, not only in your mind, but the minds of many of those who come here to have a look.
December 31, 2011 at 11:32 am
About Facebook. The reason that we haven’t been active on Facebook lately is that we have been in North Vietnam. We don’t know if this amounts to official policy, but aside from one brief flourish, we haven’t been able to access Facebook since we got here. Just another of the not-very-tourist-friendly aspects of this country, I fear.
January 3, 2012 at 5:17 pm
Dear Steve and Pam,
although I agree that HN may not be the brightest place in the world, and that we can meet amongst the pushiest and grumpiest people in Asia there, I hope you can take more time to discover some nice hanoians, because there are. It’s just a matter of time and patience.
However, you raise some really interesting points and no one could blame you to be disappointed at the obsessional military attitude of many Vietnamese (and not only the police or army). Just see how some security guards proudly shout at customers in supermarkets. The power of uniform.
Your analysis of the gap between communist dream and the ugly situation it became, is also so true.
And when I see that Bac Ho’s will to be cremated has not been respected disgusts me, but doesn’t surprise me at all. Sadly, Vietnam is the home of the most untrustable people of Asia. From the smallest shop to the biggest administration…
Cheers
G.S.
January 3, 2012 at 11:58 pm
G.S. Thanks for your input. I understand the perspective of those who live in Hanoi. There are some nice people here, and if you take ther time to develop a friendship circle, I am sure you would do just fine. However, a friendship circle is not what people find when they come here on business or on a holiday. What they find is that sullen indifference that characterizes these people. However, on our trip to the airport this morning at 5:30 we saw Hanoians on their way to work, or setting up their market stalls for the day. It was pitch black and pouring rain, but they were already hard at making a living. That kind of persevering grit will serve them well as they seek to recover from several generations of war. They are an admirable people in many ways. But they will rip off a foreigner as soon as look at you, and that is not a nice feeling as a traveller, and doesn’t build the kind of international reputation that they will need to succeed in a global economy. Once again I appreciate your insight, and thanks for the response.